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Home›Featured Post›IB Insiders›Illinois Brewing Insider: Mike Gemma on creating a welcoming vibe at Haymarket, Piece Pizza as a go-to spot, Hopewell Brewing’s Tank Beer and visiting Russian River on his anniversary

Illinois Brewing Insider: Mike Gemma on creating a welcoming vibe at Haymarket, Piece Pizza as a go-to spot, Hopewell Brewing’s Tank Beer and visiting Russian River on his anniversary

By Trent Modglin
February 21, 2025
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Mike Gemma
Co-owner, Haymarket Pub & Brewery
Chicago, IL and Bridgman, MI

Favorite breweries: So many great ones to choose from! Can’t really go wrong with the combo of pizza and beer, so easily Piece Pizzeria & Brewery in Chicago is one of my go-to spots. A couple of The Weight pale ales to pair with a Hot Doug’s atomic sausage pizza? Yes please.

Kevin Cary and the entire team at Begyle Brewing are some of the nicest people in the industry. You always feel welcome at their taproom in Ravenswood and won’t be disappointed with any of the beers Liz is creating. I’m spoiled because it’s just a few blocks away from my house. And they have Skee-ball machines!

And I’m allowed to say Haymarket, right? I don’t think I would’ve stayed with this company these past 14 years if I didn’t love what this team was delivering day in and day out: a wide range of quality beer styles, an equally thoughtful and delicious scratch food menu, a casual and welcoming environment at both locations that are perfect gathering spots for any occasion, and of course salt-of-the-earth humans who bring it all together.

Drinking tendencies: I am what you would call ombibulous, a lover of all things with alcohol (in moderation of course). The beauty of beer is the available variety to fit anyone’s palette, which helps me since I tend to be all over the board.

Like so many others, my love of beer started with Sierra Nevada’s pale ale and Deschutes’ Mirror Pond pale ale. I grew up in Northern California, so these were easy enough to grab out of my dad’s fridge in the garage (Sorry, Dad). It wasn’t until I moved to Chicago that I was introduced to Belgian beers, which drew me further into love with the craft and all the delicious possibilities.

Current local rotation these days: Hopewell Brewing’s Tank Beer, anything from Art History, Spiteful’s Goddamn Pigeon porter, Midwest Coast’s brown ale, Black Horizon’s Midnight Fist Fight hazy IPA, Funkytown’s Hip Hops and R&Brews pale ale, and Sketchbook’s Back Alley Abbey Belgian-style dubbel.

The entire team at Begyle Brewing are some of the nicest people in the industry. You always feel welcome at their taproom in Chicago’s Ravenswood neighborhood and won’t be disappointed with any of the beers Liz is creating.

Recent beers that have caught your eye: The team at Go Brewing produces some of the best non-alcohol beers around, and I love that this category is here to stay. They have a wide range of styles offered, but what caught my eye was the New School sour. Not only is it a fun style to offer those looking to take a break from alcohol, but it’s delicious! Nice tartness with a winning combo of blueberry and strawberry.

The Black Beer Baron (aka Jay Westbrook) and Sketchbook Brewing got together on a beer called Funkin’ for Jamaica (Tom Browne!), which is a foreign export stout. You don’t see too many craft breweries making this style, and this one was worth tracking down. A rum barrel-aged version was released recently too!

Bare Bear from Off Color Brewing is high on my list this winter. I dig the spiciness of the rye and love the juniper. I’m also looking forward to Old Irving Brewing’s Ursa Major Baltic porter to warm me up.

What are you looking forward to enjoying on draft this winter: Bare Bear from Off Color Brewing is high on my list. I dig the spiciness of the rye and love the juniper. I’m also looking forward to Old Irving Brewing’s Ursa Major Baltic porter to warm me up when the inevitable winter freeze hits. And, of course, there is always Sierra Nevada’s Celebration to look forward to.

Favorite beer bar in Illinois: It’s a great time to be a beer drinker, as there are numerous places that boast a well-rounded menu. But what sets my list of favorite beer bars apart from the others (as I believe most would agree) are the people who work at these establishments. You can tell when people are genuinely appreciative of your decision to spend your time and money with them.

Some places in the city on my favorites list: The Map Room, Hopleaf, Bitter Pops, Jerry’s Sandwich Shop, The Long Room, Monk’s Pub and The Green Lady.

Some places outside the city on my favorites list: The Harp & Fiddle in Park Ridge, The Irish Legend in Willow Springs, The Olympic Tavern in Rockford, Terra Ferment in Springfield and the Rock Island Public House in Blue Island.

Russian River

Best brewery you’ve hit on vacation: My wife and I celebrated our most recent anniversary with a trip to Napa this summer. Once we got our fill of some amazing cabernets, we ventured over to Santa Rosa for our first visit to Russian River Brewing Company. Getting some STS pils, Row 2/Hill 56 pale ale and Supplication right from the source was excellent. The brewpub was inviting, and the staff was super friendly. The bottles of Pliny the Elder I brought back didn’t last long.

City Built Brewing is a must visit for anyone traveling to Grand Rapids. Order up the Mi Gente West Coast IPA and pair it with an order of their Puerto Rican rice croquettes.

City Built Brewing is a must visit for anyone traveling to Grand Rapids, Michigan. Order up the Mi Gente West Coast IPA and pair it with an order of their Puerto Rican rice croquettes stuffed with bacon and spiced ground beef.

Secret beer spot: I’d have to say The Booze Caboose at the Ogilvie Train Station in Chicago. It has an amazing selection of beers, and they’re all available as singles to-go. And then there’s Rossi’s in River North and the greatest day baseball bar in Wrigleyville: The Nisei Lounge.

TagsArt History BrewingBack Alley AbbeyBare BearBegyle BrewingBitter PopsBlack Beer BaronBlack Horizon BrewingDeschutesFunkytown BrewingGo BrewingGoddamn Pigeon PorterHarp & FiddleHaymarket BrewingHopewell BrewingHopleafIllinois BrewingJerry’s Sandwich ShopMidwest Coast BrewingMike GemmaMonk’s PubNisei LoungeOff Color BrewingOgilvie Train StationOld Irving BrewingPiece Pizzeria & BreweryPliny the ElderRavenswoodRock Island Public HouseRossi's ChicagoRussian RiverSierra NevadaSketchbook BrewingSpiteful BrewingTerra FewrmentThe Booze CabooseThe Green LadyThe Irish LegendThe Long RoomThe Map RoomThe Olympic Tavern
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Trent Modglin

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Sponsored by the Illinois Craft Brewers Guild, Illinois Brewing is printed and distributed quarterly (early January, April, July and October) to more than 250 breweries across the state as well as more than 100 craft beer-focused bars, restaurants and stores. Each member of the Illinois Craft Brewers Guild’s IMBIBE club also receives the magazine in the mail. 

Publisher/owner: Trent Modglin
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Art director: Brian Hertel
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